Brutal or Beautiful?

It is either the most adventurous example of ecclesiastical architecture in the Serchio valley or, conversely, one of its ugliest. Built in that brutalist beton bruit Corbusier-inspired style familiar to many of us in the South Bank centre of London (In particular the Hayward gallery) Fornaci di Barga’s parish church can arouse the most opposed views. One thing is certain, however, one cannot remain indifferent to it.

All those conventions of church architecture which have held fast for centuries are here utterly overturned or rather transmogrified: the nave, the aisles, and the steeple are all there but one has often to look rather hard to recognize them!

Sometimes the transformed features have a certain creativeness. At other times they produce utter bathos. The font, for example, looks like some mini-Jacuzzi-style bath in a luxury pent-house suite and I almost mistook the entrance water stoup for a large ashtray. And as for the they really have to look like super-loos?

The cupola over the high altar has been cubistized to an absurd degree and, frankly, must be a tremendous heat-loser. No amount of proposed fresco painting could ever hope to alleviate its oppressive prison-like gloom.

12212013 018

The fact is that although “Corbu” is generally still assumed to be a major figure in architectural history he is very easy to imitate in a less-than-brilliant way and his pronouncements (e.g. “a house is a machine for living”) have spawned a scandalous number of third rate mock-ups. Compare, for example, the pioneering unité d’habitation at Marseilles with the Roehampton estate in London! Certainly Fornaci’s church is nowhere near the primitive beauty of that master’s pilgrimage church at Ronchamp. Is this church then just a “machine for believing”? (As if there could be any juxtaposition of Faith with psycho-mechanistic processes…)

We generally know where to look for steps, or even entrances and exits, in a church but here they crop up in the most unsuspected places: round a corner, behind a pillar. One could easily trip up (like I did…) or fail to trace the entrance. (Yesterday was the first time I found it after several years…)

I felt the slight sloping of the church floor towards the high altar was rather disconcerting. I’d never come across this feature in any other modern church and couldn’t quite see the point of it – it certainly didn’t improve the sight-lines towards the centre of attraction and gave me a feel rather of walking around a gigantic barge placed in a marginally turbulent lagoon – an impression emphasized by the port-holes which act as windows on the entrance wall.

It was the christmas crib that got me to connect again with this church – tradition in the face of modernity. Surely no place for constructivist statues here.

12212013 021

The church’s exterior has a copper roof donated by the local Metal works (see ) that would do credit to any late sixties English university campus and the campanile would not look out of place as a flue chimney to a modern chemical processing plant.

The church, however, does score over individual works of art. The stained glass is quite spectacular and there are some worthy paintings and sculpture.

The entrance doors, too, are quite impressive.

12212013 039

I would be very interested in knowing what the original reaction to Fornaci di Barga’s church was when it was inaugurated back in last century’s seventies. Did the edifice promise a brave new world of faith? Did it present a “with-it” world to younger people? What did the older folk think about it?

One thing is certain, however: there would be no funds to build such a construction in these financially- restricted times and of insufficient faith too. The new church, which was built to accommodate Fornaci’s increasing population, has now a congregation which would easily fit again into the old and smaller church built in the nineteenth century and which is so much more familiar and user-friendly. Many of us might agree that this is a good thing…


3 thoughts on “Brutal or Beautiful?

  1. I don’t understand why there is any need to build new churches in Italy. They are invariably ugly, like this one. There are empty churches all over the place, why not fix those up?

  2. Pingback: Let the People Sing! | From London to Longoio (and Lucca and Beyond) Part Two

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in: Logo

You are commenting using your account. Log Out /  Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )


Connecting to %s